The Hobo Bag sew along part 3 {How to add a Double Welt Zipped Pocket}

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Welcome back to our Reversible Hobo Bag Sew Along by Christine from Bags by Bags of Style!

You can find parts 1 & 2 here, and you can buy the pattern here in my store.

Christine will be sewing the double welt pocket in this post, it is not in the pattern, but you can find the extra pattern pieces here, ready to sew along.

Without further ado, it's over to Christine.

23......now for our double welt pocket....im breaking this down into stages to make it less intimidating........first take your two welt panels.........you ironed them in half earlier.........you're going to open them up, the panels will be right sides together, and sew a line of basting stitches down the crease you ironed in part 1......you are sewing the two panels together.....

24....
you now need to take your pocket facing panel (9 x 4) and mark a rectangle centrally on the panel (I know mine isn't central, just ignore that) the rectangle needs to be 7 inches by 1/2 inch.
25......
fold your pocket facing panel and one of your bag lining panels in half and finger press to show where the centre is.
26......
lay your pocket facing panel on your lining panel, right sides together with the rectangle approx. 3.5 inches from the top of the bag. Use the folds you just made to ensure it's central......then sew through both pieces of fabric along the lines of the rectangle.
27......
you can mark the lines that you can see cut on the first picture, or do it by eye (I do it by eye and forgot to take a picture of the lines..............cut along the centre of your rectangle, approx. 1 cm before the end of the rectangle angle you cut towards the corner of your stitching........DO NOT CUT THE STITCHING. I like to trim a little of the excess fabric away to reduce the bulk.........pull your pocket facing panel through the opening you have just made and press well.
28.....
turn your lining panel so it's face down........you will see the right side of your pocket facing panel........now apply a little glue around the edge of your pocket hole.
Take your welt panels (you already sewed them together and pressed them) and lay them over the pocket hole, try and ensure the join is central in the pocket hole.........I just lift the lining panel to check and adjust as necessary.........the front of your lining panel will look like the last photo...........don't worry that you can't get in there yet.......that bit's coming I promise
29.....
Now we are going to add the zipper. I always have a problem knowing where my pocket hole is as I've covered it up with the welt panels........so my tip......pop a pin through from the right side at the very ends of the welt panel so they are sticking out at the rear of your lining...........your pins will help you ensure the zip is in the correct place on the rear.........you can now see where the ends of the opening are so you can add your zipper in the correct place.
Add another row of glue along the rear of the welt panels to secure the zipper........then lay the zipper so the teeth are sitting over the join in the welt panels.........once you're happy you have everything in the correct place....REMOVE THE PINS.........
30......
Once you are happy that all of your parts are in the correct place and secure........turn the whole panel over, attach your zipper foot and sew around the outside of your opening, as close to the edge as you can. This will secure the welts and zipper in one go.
Once you have finished your stitching, take a seam ripper and carefully remove the basting stitches you did on the welt panels........don't poke about too far or you may catch your zipper.
You can now access your zipper............how accomplished do you feel now eh???

31......
So now we have a pocket hole, but no lining.....turn your lining panel over so you are looking at the rear of it......take your pocket lining panel (9 x 14) and lay it (right side down) with the shorter side over the top of the pocket facing panel.......they should match........you will need to fold the main lining panel out of the way to stitch the top of the pocket lining panel and the top of the pocket facing panel together.
32....
so now your pocket lining is attached at the top.........you need to fold the lining away from you and match the bottom of the pocket lining panel with the bottom of the pocket facing panel.....again fold the main lining panel out of the way so you can sew the two panels together.......you now have a pocket that's sewn at the top and the bottom...........I'm pretty sure you can guess where we go from here.
33
straighten the pocket out so it's sitting nicely against the rear of the lining panel, clip the sides of the pocket and ensuring you fold away the main lining panel.....stitch both sides..........wooooo hooo......you made a double welt zipper pocket..............

Thanks Christine! Pop your double welt zipped pockets to one side, next week we'll finish the pockets and lining, and your Hobo bags will be ready to go!

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